Behind the Logo: How to Hire and Grow Real Leaders in Fashion

Part 2 of my "Behind the Glamour" Series - Confessions of a Fashion Headhunter

In my last article, I wrote about a common pattern in the fashion industry: Hiring for brand pedigree instead of actual leadership ability.

When we choose résumés over leadership skills, we don’t just risk bad hires — we damage cultures, lose great talent, and stall innovation. But the point isn’t just to critique what’s broken. It’s to offer a better way forward.

Because fashion needs a new kind of leader — and the good news is, we can build the systems to identify and support them. 

So here’s some ideas for Hiring Managers and those at the leadership level who want do things differently going forward:

What to Do Instead: Practical Shifts for Better Hiring Decisions

1. Screen for Emotional Intelligence — Not Just Executive Polish

A polished CV tells you where they’ve been. Emotional intelligence tells you how they lead.

In interviews, go deeper:

• How do they handle feedback?

• What’s their relationship with failure?

• Can they reflect, grow, and take accountability?

Try this question:

“Tell me about a time you made a wrong call as a leader. What did you learn, and how did your team respond?”

You’re looking for humility, self-awareness, and a growth mindset — not just the perfect spin.

2. Speak to Former Direct Reports — Not Just Peers

Executive references will tell you they’re strategic. But their team will tell you if they were safe to work with.

When checking references, ask former team members:

• Did you feel safe sharing ideas or disagreeing?

• How did they support your growth?

• What was their leadership like under pressure?

If direct reports are vague or hesitant — listen carefully. That silence often says a lot.

3. Weigh Cultural Impact as Heavily as Commercial Results

A great P&L isn’t a free pass for toxic leadership. If the team is burnt out, disengaged, or divided — it’s not sustainable success.

In the hiring process, include interview questions like:

• “How do you create psychological safety on your team?”

• “How do you manage conflict and develop talent?”

• “What does inclusion look like in your day-to-day leadership?”

These answers should be clear, specific, and grounded in real examples — not theory.

4. Reward Leaders Who Build Trust — Not Fear

If your top performers leave after working with a leader, ask why. Not all high-performing managers are high-integrity leaders.

Elevate and retain people who:

• Foster belonging

• Develop others

• Share credit

• Leave behind loyal, thriving teams

Include these traits in performance reviews and promotion criteria — not just revenue or output.

5. Actively Address Unconscious Bias

It’s human nature to hire in our own image — but left unchecked, this tendency limits diversity of background, thought, and experience. And in fashion, that’s a missed opportunity for the innovation and adaptability the industry urgently needs.

Build diverse interview panels. Align in advance on the key skills and leadership behaviors the role truly requires. Then, ask every candidate the same structured questions — and evaluate them based on how they think, lead, and solve problems.

Focus on substance over similarity. That’s how you build teams that challenge groupthink — and move the industry forward.

6. Track Leadership Impact After the Hire

Most onboarding ends at 90 days. But the real impact of a leader unfolds over time.

Check in with their team after 6 months:

• Is morale improving?

• Are people growing?

• Is performance strong and sustainable?

Great leaders don’t just manage metrics — they shape environments where people can thrive.

Leadership Is a System — Not a Guess

Hiring better leaders starts with changing what we value and how we measure leadership. It means moving beyond the allure of “who they know” and “where they’ve been” to ask:

How do they lead when no one is watching?